Tadoba - The Jewel of Vidarbha

Tadoba Lake

Nestled in the heart of Maharashtra, Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve is one of India’s oldest and most celebrated tiger reserves. Fondly known as the “Jewel of Vidarbha,” the sanctuary was established in 1955 and spans 1,727 square kilometers, with a 625 square kilometer core zone dedicated to tiger conservation. This pristine landscape is a mosaic of dense forests, sprawling meadows, and serene water bodies, offering a rich habitat for a diverse array of wildlife.

The dominant vegetation in Tadoba includes lush teak forests and expansive bamboo groves, which thrive across the reserve. Other notable flora, such as tendu, crocodile bark, and mahua, not only enhance the biodiversity but also support the livelihoods of local tribal communities.

While the majestic Royal Bengal tiger is undoubtedly the star attraction, Tadoba is home to a variety of other fascinating mammals. During our trip, we were fortunate to spot leopards, sloth bears, gaur (Indian bison), spotted deer (chital), sambar deer, nilgai, and langurs. Each encounter added a new layer of wonder to our safari experience. The reserve is also a special place for bird enthusiasts, hosting an impressive array of avian species. Among those we observed were the grey-headed fish eagle, green bee-eater (often seen darting energetically overhead), plum-headed parakeet, changeable hawk-eagle, lesser adjutant stork, black drongo, magpie robin, red-vented bulbul, egrets, and herons.

In November 2024, I had the privilege of accompanying the renowned wildlife photographer and Sony brand ambassador, Jayant Sharma, on an immersive three and half days safari at Tadoba Tiger Reserve. A veteran in his field, Jayant’s expertise added incredible depth to the experience. His keen eye and ability to narrate the nuances of wildlife photography transformed our safari into a masterclass, blending the thrill of wildlife spotting with the art of capturing these moments through the lens.

Our journey began in Nagpur, the nearest airport to Tadoba, situated approximately 140 kilometers from the reserve. As workshop participants arrived at different times, those arriving close together were carpooled for efficiency. The drive from Nagpur to Tadoba took around 2.5 to 3 hours. While most of the journey was smooth, the final stretch leading into the jungle proved to be quite bumpy and uncomfortable, adding an element of adventure as we approached the wilderness.

Our home for the next four days was the Tadoba Jungle Lodge, conveniently located near the Moharli Gate. Some of the rooms (including ours) were perched atop a machan-like structure, which also housed the main dining area. From this elevated vantage point, we could get views of the surrounding forest and the nearby Erai Dam, setting the perfect tone for an immersive wildlife experience.

Tadoba is divided into four main zones—Moharli, Navegaon, Kolara, and Zari-Pangadi—with a total of 19 gates covering both the Core and Buffer Zones. Safaris typically operate twice a day, in the morning and afternoon, but there’s also an option for all-day safaris, which we had opted for, allow permit holders to explore the park for a full 12 hours (from 6:15 AM to 6:15 PM). Although full-day safaris can be gruelling and physically taxing, they offer a unique advantage: during the quieter afternoon hours, when regular tourists exit the park, permit holders often have the reserve to themselves, significantly increasing the chances of spotting the elusive big cat.

Tiger sightings depend on several factors—a mix of skill, luck, and strategy. Key elements include tracking tiger movements from paw prints, listening for alarm calls, picking up cues about recent sightings from other guides and drivers, and, most crucially, being at the right place at the right time. Curiously, the Tadoba forest department prohibits the use of mobile phones inside the park. While this rule might aim to minimize disturbances, it also hampers communication between guides, making it challenging to relay real-time information about tiger movements. This often results in missed sighting opportunities—a frustrating drawback for enthusiasts and photographers alike.

 Wildlife photography is a challenging yet rewarding pursuit. It demands immense patience and unwavering perseverance as you navigate, disppointing days,  unpredictable weather and long, back-breaking hours in the field or just waiting for the tiger (who you know is just a few meters away), but refuses to come out of the jungle from its resting place. While missed opportunities can be disheartening, the true magic lies in witnessing the wonders of the natural world unfold before your eyes. The thrill of capturing that one perfect moment, that fleeting glimpse of wild beauty, makes every hardship worthwhile.

During our time at Tadoba, we explored the Moharli Core Zone and the Junona Buffer, each offering  diverse wildlife experiences.

In the Moharli area, we had a remarkable encounter with Roma, a female tigress. We spotted her near Tadoba Lake, dragging the carcass of a sambar deer into the dense jungle. Witnessing this raw display of survival in the wild was both rare and awe-inspiring—a once-in-a-lifetime photography opportunity that still gives me goosebumps.

The day after, we came across Collarwali, another majestic tigress, casually wandering along the road just as we entered the jungle. She stayed with us for quite some time, gracefully pacing before disappearing into the dense foliage. One of the group’s most thrilling moments (which I unfortunatly missed due to a bruised back), was an extraordinary sighting of Bijli and Choti Tara with their playful cubs, a vivid reminder of Tadoba’s thriving tiger population.

We also spent a day and a half in the Junona Buffe. Here, we observed Indian Gaur, encountered three Sloth Bears, and caught a fleeting glimpse of the formidable Chota Dariyal, a massive male tiger. On our final day, just as we were exiting the reserve, a leopard made a brief but breathtaking appearance, a perfect farewell to our adventure.

Three and half days immersed in the raw beauty of the Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve, camera in hand, left us with memories to last a lifetime. The thrill of spotting majestic tigers, the serenity of observing wildlife in their natural habitat, and the intricate dance of nature around us made this experience truly special.

This safari wasn’t just about capturing stunning photographs; it was about reconnecting with the wild, understanding the delicate balance of ecosystems, and sharing our passion for wildlife photography with like-minded enthusiasts. As we bid farewell to Tadoba, we carried with us not only extraordinary images but also a renewed sense of wonder and a deep respect for the incredible creatures that call this reserve their home.

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