Kanha: A journey through India’s heart land
Kanha National Park holds a special place in my heart for many reasons. It was during my first wildlife safari here that my journey into serious photography truly began. This transformative experience not only sparked a deep passion for nature but also fostered a profound appreciation for conservation. With its breathtaking landscapes and rich biodiversity, Kanha remains one of the most stunning forests I have ever visited. It was also here that I connected with a group of like-minded wildlife enthusiasts who share my love for nature and photography—bonds that endure to this day.
Kanha is located in Madhya Pradesh, aptly referred to as the “Tiger State of India,” home to eight tiger reserves. The park lies approximately 260 km from Nagpur and is also accessible via Jabalpur and Raipur. Spanning an impressive 1,940 square kilometers, Kanha includes a designated core area of about 940 square kilometers.
Originally established as a sanctuary in 1933 and declared a national park in 1955, Kanha is celebrated for its lush sal and bamboo forests, expansive meadows, and striking landscapes. It stands as one of India’s most beautiful and well-preserved forests. The park is also a beacon of conservation success, notably for its role in saving the barasingha (swamp deer) from near extinction. The forest served as the inspiration for Rudyard Kipling’s iconic literary creation, The Jungle Book. During our game drives, we could observe, barasinghas, true to their swamp deer nick name, standing in water bodies for hours, periodically dipping their heads in search of food. Their antlers, adorned with moss and algae, making their appearance visually captivaring.
Kanha is divided into four zones: Kisli, Mukki, Kanha, and Sarhi. The park offers two safari shifts daily—morning and afternoon. Given the high demand, it is advisable to book entry permits in advance, either online, through hotels/resorts, or via travel agents. Permits are issued for a specific zone, and the forest department enforces strict adherence to the allocated zone and the park’s operating hours. This ensures smooth management of tourist activities and minimal disturbance to wildlife.
In early January 2024, a group of us gathered at Kanha National Park for a wildlife safari-cum-workshop led by Sudhir Shivaram, a renowned photographer and Sony brand ambassador. The participants were a diverse mix—ranging from seasoned photographers to beginners like me, eager to master the basics of the craft. Sudhir’s expertise, combined with his excellent teaching skills, ensured that the workshop catered to all skill levels. The sessions seamlessly blended on-field and off-field training, helping each of us refine our techniques and deepen our understanding of wildlife photography.
Winter in Kanha is a haven for photographers. In the early mornings, the first rays of sunlight filter through the mist-laden sal trees, slowly awakening the forest. The soft, ethereal light casts the landscape in hues of blue and gray, creating a surreal, almost dreamlike atmosphere. Silhouettes of wildlife—perhaps a barasingha or a spotted deer—emerge from the haze, offering evocative frames that capture the mystery and raw beauty of the wilderness.
As the day progresses, the late afternoon sun bathes the forest in a warm, golden glow. The softened light enhances the textures of the sal trees and meadows, while animals become more active—moving toward waterholes, grazing in the open, or resting in the shade. This time of day is perfect for capturing the essence of Kanha’s wildlife, framed against the golden tones of the setting sun.
Our home at Kanha was the Chitvan Jungle Lodge, located near the Mukki Gate. Over the next four days, we embarked on eight safaris, exploring both the Mukki and Kanha zones. The two zones offer contrasting topographies. The Mukki Zone is dominated by dense sal forests and scattered water bodies, creating a haven for wildlife amidst lush greenery. In contrast, the Kanha Zone is characterized by open grasslands with tall grasses, which serve as prime grazing grounds for deer and other mammals. The openness of the Kanha Zone also provides excellent opportunities for spotting and photographing birds, often with clear, unobstructed views.
Our days began early, as we needed to reach the forest office by 5:45 AM to collect the passes and enter the forest at the crack of dawn. The morning safari lasted until 11:00 AM, with a short break in between. The resort provided us with packed meals, which we consumed at designated rest areas within the forest. One such spot in the Mukki Zone, known as the “Mid-Point,” is especially popular for its freshly made samosas and chai—a delightful treat amidst the wilderness.
The second safari shift began at 2:00 PM, which meant leaving the resort right after lunch. The forest gates closed promptly at 6:00 PM, and we had to exit the jungle by then. By the time we returned to the resort, darkness had already settled in. As we prepared for dinner and bed, the silence of the night was punctuated by the sounds of the wild—the bark of a jackal, the alarm call of a deer, or even the distant, spine-chilling roar of a tiger.
Kanha National Park is home of a variety of mammals and bird species. During our visit we could spot, Royal Bengal Tiger, Spotted deer, Sambar deer, Barasingha, Black Buck, Fox, Langur, amonst others.
Amongst the avian species, we spotted, variety of owls, changeable hawk eagles, Magpie Robin, Prinia, Kingfisher, Purple Martin, Parakeets, Indian Roller, Yellow-billed Babbler, Peacocks, Long tailed shrike etc etc.
Despite the abundant presence of diverse fauna, the primary draw of Kanha—like other tiger reserves—remains the majestic Royal Bengal Tiger. For many, the success of a safari is measured by the thrill of a tiger sighting, even if only fleeting. By that standard, our trip to Kanha was nothing short of extraordinary.
Over the course of our four days and eight safaris, we were fortunate to witness tigers on seven occasions. Among them were Deewan Behra (DB), a magnificent male tiger, Dhawa Jhandi (DJ), a female tigress, and her two playful cubs.
The highlight of our Kanha adventure—a moment that will remain etched in our memories forever—was an unforgettable encounter on the penultimate day of our trip, with DJ and her cubs. As dusk began to settle over Kanha, we were making our way toward the forest gate. The air was cool, carrying the earthy aroma of the sal forest, while the golden light of the setting sun cast a warm glow and long, dramatic shadows across the landscape.
Just as we approached an open stretch of grassland, an awe-inspiring sight unfolded—DJ, emerged from the dense sal forest, accompanied by her two playful cubs. With her regal stride, DJ stepped onto the grassland, exuding an aura of confidence and calm. She chose a spot at the heart of the clearing, gracefully settling down as her powerful frame blended seamlessly with the golden hues of the grassland.
Her cubs, however, had no intention of resting. They burst into a whirlwind of energy, darting across the grassland in a lively game of chase. They tumbled, leapt, and embraced, their innocent exuberance lighting up the scene. Their playful antics were a joy to behold—rolling through the grass with wild abandon, occasionally pausing to nuzzle their mother for reassurance before resuming their frolic.
Occasionally, one or both cubs would dart back to their mother, seeking her reassurance and love. DJ, ever watchful, would respond with a gentle nudge or a lick before the cubs resumed their playful escapades.
It was a mesmerizing spectacle, that reminded us of the delicate balance of life in the wild, and it left us spellbound, grateful to witness such an intimate slice of nature.
Next day it was time to return and as we bid good-byes and promised to keep in touch, I felt a deep sense of gratitude for witnessing such an intimate and magical moment in Kanha’s untamed heart.
Special acknowledment to the fellow photography enthusiants (who we now fondly refer to as the Kanha Alumni 2024), who made the journey so special – Aashik, Dr Gurvinder Banga, Parth Wagh, Shaishav Bhatt, Sudipta Sinha & Syed.
