Kenya Safari
Day 1: Nairobi
Our much-awaited family vacation to Kenya for an African Safari finally began, and the excitement was palpable. Shil and Lindsay had already arrived in Dubai a day earlier. We were thrilled to welcome Sruti on the Emirates flight to Nairobi.
After a short 5-hour flight, we landed in Nairobi, eager to start our safari. We were welcomed by Martin from Scarface Pride our tour organizer. Before embarking on our African Safari, we spent the night at the Tamarind Tree hotel in Nairobi. Rested and eager, we looked forward to the wildlife encounters that would await us the next day
Day 2: Nanyuki
Today was a special day as we celebrated Shil’s 32nd birthday. After breakfast, Martin introduced us to Sam from Scarface and his reliable 4X4 Toyota Landcruiser, which would be our trusty companion throughout the next 7 days of the safari.
We embarked on a journey to Nanyuki, located about 200 km from Nairobi. The road offered glimpses of the Kenyan countryside with vast farmlands and quaint small towns. As we drew closer to Nanyuki, the landscape transformed into a more rugged terrain with scattered trees on the vast savanna. The majestic Mount Kenya range stood tall on our right, creating a breathtaking backdrop.
Our home for the next two days was the Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club, a place with a rich history. The main building was once the residence of Hollywood actor William Holden and his friends. Over the years, it has hosted famous personalities like Winston Churchill, Bing Crosby, and John Wayne. The resort’s beauty was simply awe-inspiring, situated on the slopes of Mount Kenya amidst 100 acres of lush landscaped gardens. Its amenities included a golf course and a glass-enclosed outdoor dining area that offered a stunning view of the mountains and its peak on clear days. On the property’s picturesque lawns, a delightful variety of animals and birds can be spotted, including the Marabou Stork, which is one of the ‘ugly 5,’ as well as Egyptian geese, peacocks, alpacas, and playful Colobus Monkeys.
Situated at an altitude of 7000ft, the property boasts a unique feature – the equatorial line runs right across it. After lunch, we joined a fascinating equatorial ceremony conducted by the Kikuyu tribe from the Bantu community. Shil, Sruti, and Lindsay actively participated and received individual certificates as mementos. The ceremony culminated in a heartwarming moment when I had the honor of donning the hat of the tribal head, surrounded by the tribal family, while beating a drum in celebration.
After the ceremony, we set out to explore the animal orphanage adjacent to the property. It houses a variety of rescued animals, from lions and leopards to swift cheetahs, as well as ostriches, baboons, llamas, leopard tortoises, and striped hyenas. We were even lucky enough to see the near-extinct species of antelope called ‘Bongo.’
The evening was magical as we gathered on the lawns of the main building under the starry sky to celebrate Shil’s birthday. We cozied up by a terracotta fireplace, sipping our drinks under the starry skies before heading to dinner.
The hotel staff made the occasion even more special with a birthday cake and a cheerful rendition of the Happy Birthday song, in Swahili, for Shil.”
Day 3: Ol Pajeta Conservancy
Our tour guide, Sam, proved to be an exceptional companion as we embarked on our African Safari. He is not only warm and friendly but also remarkably knowledgeable about the region. Hailing from Nakuru, he resides in Nairobi and possesses a diverse set of skills, excelling as a driver, photographer, and, most importantly, a well-informed guide.
Ol Pejeta Conservancy, a prominent private wildlife sanctuary near Mount Kenya Safari Club, became our destination for the day. Spanning over an impressive 90,000 acres in Laikipia County, the conservancy is home to the famous ‘Big Five.’
On our way, we spotted a herd of two-humped camels gathered at a watering hole. The tribal men who were bathing in the same water were quite perturbed by the invasion of their privacy by a bunch of tourists.
As we ventured into the vast flatlands of the conservancy, Sam’s expertise allowed us to witness an array of animals up close. Playful zebras, majestic water buffaloes, herds of elephants, and two-horned white African rhinos were among the remarkable sightings. We also sighted large-horned Ankole cows, graceful impalas with distinct M-shaped designs on their buttocks, elegant gazelles, towering giraffes, and the crafty black back jackals. A variety of birds, including the saddle-billed storks and Uganda’s national bird, the crested crane.
The highlight of our tour was undoubtedly encountering a family of lionesses napping peacefully under the shade of a tree, seemingly undisturbed by the presence of curious visitors like us.
Experiencing the African safari from an open-top Jeep was an adventure in itself. It provided us with an opportunity to get close to the animals without fearing any harm. It was evident that the animals were accustomed to human presence and vehicles, as they continued with their daily routines unperturbed.
Our visit to the conservancy concluded with two additional stops. First, we paid a visit to a blind black rhino. Second, we had the opportunity to explore the chimpanzee sanctuary, an initiative started by the renowned Jane Goodall Institute. The sanctuary offers a safe and nurturing haven for rescued and orphaned chimpanzees, making it a testament to the vital conservation efforts in the region.”
Day 4: Lake Nakuru
Our destination was Lake Nakuru National Park, a place of great ecological and cultural significance. Situated in the Great Rift Valley, this park boasts diverse ecosystems, wildlife, and flora, making it a nature lover’s paradise. The 180km road from Nanyuki to Nakuru offered a scenic drive through lush green vegetation and picturesque cornfields. Our journey took us through rolling hills, meadows adorned with yellow daisies, and farmlands cultivating wheat crops along the way.
Covering approximately 188 square kilometres, the park is home to Lake Nakuru, a saltwater lake covering an area of 45 square kilometers. The lake is surrounded by stunning landscapes, featuring rocky cliffs, acacia trees, and grassy plains, providing a sanctuary for a wide variety of bird species and wildlife. Our home for the day was the eco-friendly Sarova Lion Hill Game Lodge, strategically located next to the lake. After lunch and a brief rest, we embarked on an afternoon game drive to explore the park’s abundant wildlife.
As we drove along the tranquil lake shores, we observed the presence of countless white pelicans gracefully perched on tree branches, either in peaceful slumber, patiently awaiting their catch, or elegantly gliding from one part of the water to another. Lake Nakuru is renowned for hosting large flocks of flamingos, creating a breathtaking spectacle of pink hues on the shoreline. Though the population of flamingoes has diminished over the years, we were still fortunate to witness a beautiful cluster of these elegant pink birds at one end of the lake.
During the game drive, we were treated to a diverse array of wildlife sightings, including Fish eagles, Blue ball monkeys, Impalas, Wild Buffaloes, Baboons, Cormorants, Grey herons, and Kenya’s national bird, the Lilac-breasted roller. Our hotel was also a haven for birdwatchers, with many bird species making their homes in the vicinity. We were particularly enchanted by the sight of yellow weaver bird nests in one of the trees.
After a long and eventful day, we decided to retire early in anticipation of our upcoming journey to our final destination, the renowned Masai Mara National Park.”
Day 5-7: Masai Mara National Reserve
The wildlife conservatory takes its name from the Maasai people, an indigenous ethnic group native to the region, and the Mara River that meanders through the reserve. Renowned for the annual migration of millions of wildebeest, zebras, and other ungulates in search of sustenance and water between the Maasai Mara and Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park, the reserve holds global acclaim.
The distance from Lake Nakuru to the Mara gate—of which several exist, with our entrance through the Talek Gate—spans roughly 250 kilometers. The initial leg of the journey unfolds through verdant vegetation, predominantly cornfields. However, upon crossing Narok, also known as the gateway to the Mara, the scenery transforms into the quintessential African savanna vista—vast stretches of grassland punctuated by scattered trees. En route, we encountered Masai men adorned in their vibrant “Shuka” attire, accompanied by long staffs, tending to their cattle as they grazed.
The terrain within the Mara is notably rugged and uneven. There are no paved roads and involves a significant amount of off-road driving to get a good view of the wildlife. No sooner had we crossed the gates, we were greeted by a sea of wildebeests and zebras, waterbucks (a type of antelope), Masai giraffes, impalas, gazelles, hyenas, and many more. Masai giraffes have irregular patches that are more jagged in shape and somewhat darker in color compared to other subspecies, which we will see during the later part of our journey. Our home for the next 3 days would be the Mara Eden Safari camp, a luxury tented resort nestled next to the Mara River. Seated on our tent’s patio, savoring Kenyan coffee, the symphony of rushing waters paired with the fading sun’s embrace and punctuated with occasional grunts of hippos transported us to a realm of unparalleled serenity and calm.
Over the next two days, we had set aside dedicated time for our highly anticipated game drives. These excursions were scheduled during the early morning and late afternoon, a period renowned as the “Golden Hour.” During this time, the weather is cool, with heightened animal activity, and the lighting conditions were optimal for photography. We had arranged with the hotel to prepare breakfast and lunch packs, allowing us to start our expeditions at the crack of dawn. Our trusted guide, Sam, had thoughtfully raised the roof of our Landcruiser, ensuring an unobstructed view of the splendid fauna. While Sam adeptly directed our attention to the various animals that graced our path, our eyes had become attuned to spotting even distant creatures.
Our initial encounter included the elusive hippos, whose distinctive grunts we had heard the previous evening as we drove along the banks of the Mara River. As our journey unfolded, an array of wildlife crossed our path—warthogs, antelopes, foxes, and even hyenas. Notably, a group of vultures caught our attention, feasting upon the remnants of a kill, presumably from the previous night’s hunt. With the brightening of the day, we were treated to a mesmerizing panorama of the majestic savannah. The expansive golden grasslands extended toward the horizon, occasionally punctuated by Acacia trees and clusters of bushes. Adding to the visual delight were hot air balloons that adorned the sky on the distant horizon. These are the territories of the magnificent big cats that roam these lands.
The Land Cruiser jeeps used for game drives are equipped with advanced telecommunication equipment through which the tour guide and driver constantly keep in touch with other vehicles for real-time updates on significant wildlife sightings and Mara river crossings. It wasn’t long before we received information about several groups of lions having been spotted, and true to their reputation, the king of the jungle did not disappoint us. Our first encounter was a majestic lion reclining in the cool shade of a tree, seemingly unaffected by the scores of other vehicles in the vicinity. Next was a group of lionesses with their cubs sleeping on the branches of a tree. And then, a lion ardently pursuing a lioness across the savanna grass in passionate pursuit of life’s most primal instincts. While we were delighted with this sighting, however, we did feel a tinge of sadness that the sanctity of the moment was being disturbed by curious gazes of numerous onlookers and their vehicles obstructing the passage of the animals.
Unfortunately, the news that Sam received regarding the migration was less than encouraging. The wireless chats informed us that although a collection of animals had congregated near the Mara banks, they were hesitant to cross the river. Rather than continuing to wait, we decided to proceed toward the river in hopes that circumstances would change by the time we arrived. En route, our journey granted us the sight of a family of African bush elephants as they grazed amongst the bushes. We also encountered sizable groups of wildebeests and zebras moving in the direction of the river. However, we were informed that these herds wouldn’t reach the river for several more days. After dedicating over two hours to various crossing points, we reluctantly turned back, a bit disappointed but somewhat alleviated by witnessing a few zebras summoning the courage to successfully traverse the river, defying the lurking crocodile predators.
Just when we believed our day was concluding, our plans took an unexpected turn with the wireless message Sam received, alerting us to the sighting of a cheetah. Clinging tightly to our seats, Sam deftly steered us off the beaten path, guiding us through grasslands and rivulets to offer an exceptional view of the fastest land animal. Throughout the entirety of our journey, one aspect consistently amazed and impressed us: the unwavering commitment and passion that Sam and his colleagues exhibited for their work. Despite traversing these roads countless times, they never missed an opportunity to go the extra mile, ensuring the satisfaction of their patrons.
As the day drew to a close, we found ourselves in high spirits, commemorating Sujata’s 58th birthday. The hotel staff, adorned in traditional vibrant Masai attire, performed a traditional dance characterized by its rhythmic movements and distinctive chanting. Their heartfelt well-wishes for Sujata were followed by the joyous moment of cutting the birthday cake.
On the following day, while I remained at the hotel to nurse my back and enjoy the property, Sujata and the kids embarked on yet another game drive. Regrettably, the elusive migration remained out of sight this day as well. Despite the presence of numerous wildebeests and zebras near the river, none made the crossing during their time there. Nevertheless, the outing proved to be rewarding as they witnessed a lion pride feasting on a kill, and even had a leopard strolling right beside their vehicle.
During our final evening, the hotel organized a happy hour at the viewpoint atop the hillock behind the property. Sipping mojito at twilight, in the company of the hippos in the nearby Mara River, we contemplated what an extraordinary and delightful journey our African safari had unfolded into.”
Day 8: Nairobi and back home
We started early as we wanted to be on time to feed the giraffes at the conservatory near Nairobi. On our way, we made a brief stop at a Masai village a short distance from the reserve gate. We were greeted by Maasai men and women wearing their traditional dresses who took us on a tour of their village. We were told that the village is one big family of 138 people and the patriarch, who is 90+ years old, is part of the community. The Maasai people are a semi-nomadic ethnic group living in Kenya and Tanzania, and their livelihood is raising their livestock, mainly cattle, sheep, and goats. These animals serve as a measure of wealth and a source of food (milk, blood, and meat).
After a quick lunch, we made our way to the Giraffe Center in Nairobi, an institution devoted to conserving and safeguarding the endangered Rothschild Giraffe. This giraffe species is slightly larger than the one we encountered in Mara. Notably, the Rothschild’s legs lack spots and resemble stockings. Visitors can see the Giraffes at close proximity and also feed them from the raised viewing platform.
As darkness settled in, Sam dropped us off at the airport. With heavy hearts, we bid farewell, knowing he’ll come to mind whenever we revisit our Kenya photos and reflect on this blog
Acknowledgments:
A heartfelt thanks to my dear wife, Sujata, whose unwavering dedication and meticulous planning over the past months paved the way for this extraordinary adventure. Gratitude also to Geetika Malhotra of Scarface Pride for transforming the journey into an enjoyable experience, tending to even our tiniest needs — like arranging a pillow in the car to ease my aching back. Finally, to Sam, for his ever-present smile, his unwavering insistence on punctuality to ensure we wouldn’t miss out on any action, and his willingness to go the extra mile, ensuring an exceptional safari experience.
