Into the wild: A Journey through Pilibhit National Tiger Reserve
It was the height of summer in India, with temperatures soaring to around 50 degrees Celsius in parts of Northern India, when I stumbled upon an opportunity to join a wildlife photography safari and workshop at Pilibhit National Park and Tiger Reserve in Uttar Pradesh. The workshop, led by Aarzoo Khurana, a young and highly accomplished photographer whom I avidly follow on Instagram, was too enticing to pass up despite the challenging climate conditions. Pilibhit is approximately an 8-hour drive from Delhi and 6 hours from Lucknow, with the nearest airport, Pantnagar, about 2 hours away by road. Designated as a tiger reserve as recently as 2014, Pilibhit remains relatively lesser known. The tourism infrastructure is still developing, with only a few homestays available near the reserve. Most overnight visitors opt to stay in nearby towns such as Pilibhit or Khatima.
Pilibhit Tiger Reserve covers an area of approximately 730 square kilometers, with roughly 600 square kilometers designated as the core zone. Only about 20% of the reserve is open to tourism. Nestled in the Terai region, Pilibhit Tiger Reserve offers an enchanting escape into nature's splendor. Despite the peak of summer, the jungles of Pilibhit, to my surprise and delight, were lush, green, dense, and visually stunning. The canopy of trees and bushes provides much-needed shade and protection from the harsh sun to the wildlife, locals, and visitors alike.
Two main factors contribute to this verdant landscape. Firstly, Pilibhit lies in the Terai region, a fertile low-lying area at the base of the Himalayas abundant in groundwater. Secondly, the Sharda Canal, constructed to harness the water resources of the Sharda River, cuts through the national forest, serving as a vital water source for wildlife. The canal, dating back to the British colonial period, was originally built to support agricultural activities in the fertile plains of the region. The habitat consists of Sal forests, tall grasslands, and swamps/waterbodies that also serve as watering holes for animals. The early morning and evening golden hours are magical, with the rising and setting sun transforming the landscape into a mesmerizing work of art.
According to a 2018 report, Pilibhit Tiger Reserve was home to 65 Royal Bengal tigers. Access to this wilderness is through two main gates: Chuka and Mustafabad. The forest office near Mustafabad Gate is the starting point for safaris, which require permits that must be pre-booked through the national park's website for either morning or afternoon slots.
Spotting a tiger is a thrilling challenge, a blend of luck, forest knowledge, and understanding animal behavior. Interpreting signs such as pug marks and calls from deer and birds can make the difference between a fleeting glimpse and a missed opportunity. Having a skilled guide and driver, with keen observation skills, is crucial for a successful safari.A tiger safari is a rollercoaster of emotions, with moments of exhilaration and disappointment. Despite the best efforts, there are days when the tigers remain hidden in the dense jungle or slip away just before you arrive. During our eight safaris over four days at Pilibhit, we were fortunate to spot tigers on three occasions. These sightings, though few, are unforgettable.
Most tiger sightings occur along the banks of the Sharda Canal, known locally as the Pakki and Kacchhi Sarak. Tigers often emerge from the forest to drink water on the canal banks before returning to the jungle the same way. We spent much of our safari time circling this area and were rewarded with sightings of the Barahi female and Sundari, both of whom have made their homes on either side of the canal. Although we were informed about two male tigers, S2 and S3, in the same location, we did not spot them during our visit. However, a subsequent group had the good fortune to see S2 on the park's closing day.
Although tigers are the main attraction in Pilibhit Tiger Reserve, the National Tiger Conservation Authority of India reports that the habitat hosts a variety of mammals, reptiles, and over 450 species of birds. During our visit, we sighted spotted deer, sloth bears, rhesus macaques, common langurs, and jackals. Among the birds, we saw Indian rollers, green bee-eaters, serpent eagles, woodpeckers, peacocks, changeable hawk eagles, paradise flycatchers, and Indian pittas. The dense jungles of Pilibhit, with few open grasslands, make wildlife sightings challenging as the fauna often hides in the bushes and trees, eluding even the most observant eyes.
Another must-visit spot in the reserve is the Sharda Reservoir, accessible via the Chuka Gate. The reservoir serves as the lifeline for the surrounding ecosystem and offers a place for tourists to relax and rejuvenate. There are small eateries selling tea and snacks, including delicious bhajis, and a souvenir shop selling memorabilia like hats with the reserve's brand—something I always pick up whenever I go on a safari. Additionally, there's a small eatery located at the far end of the Pakki Sarak, just across the bridge, which sells mouthwatering, freshly made Sohan Papri and tea. It’s an ideal place for a small break during the morning and afternoon drives.
Acknowledgements
One hot and dull afternoon, as we circled the reserve or sat patiently in the shade of a tree on our jeep, waiting for a tiger to appear, I jokingly asked Aarzoo if it wouldn't be easier to fit the tigers with tracking devices so that the guides could locate them more easily. She responded that the thrill of a wildlife safari lies in tracking the animal through pug marks or calls from other mammals and birds. Without this challenge, much of the excitement would be lost. She was right. When a tiger is finally spotted, there's a rush of adrenaline and palpable excitement all around. The guides and jeep drivers compete to get the best possible view, and we photographers cling to the vehicle and our cameras, praying for just one good shot of the magnificent animal. That moment remains with us for a long time.
Thank you, Aarzoo, for your mentorship, guidance, and for curating such a wonderful trip. Thank you, Irshad Bhai and Megha, for the excellent logistics and on-the-ground support. And finally, thank you to my fellow teammates, Purnendu, Ratnish, and Prabudh, for a memorable workshop. It was wonderful meeting you all, and I hope we have more adventures together in the future.
